Introducing Ryukyu Bingata, characterized by its stencil-dyed patterns

Have you heard of Ryukyu Bingata? You may not be familiar with the term, but it is one of Okinawa's most representative traditional dyeing techniques. There are probably very few people who don't know "Ryukyu," but it actually refers to "Okinawa." It is said that "Ben" refers to all colors, and "kata" refers to patterns in general.

Ryukyu Bingata, characterized by its colorful use of colors and a variety of flashy patterns, how has it been passed down to the present day? Now let's take a closer look at the history of Ryukyu Bingata. It began in the mid-15th century when it was produced under the protection of the royal court, and evolved and developed through trade with Southeast Asia, incorporating various techniques. It came to be known as Oriental Floral Fabric, and was a famous and valuable trading item in the Fu Jian Market.

The vivid and delicate colors are used, and the patterns have undergone unique changes influenced by trade with Southeast Asia and other places. It is said that it was mainly worn by women such as members of the royal family and samurai, members of the nobility who had not yet reached adulthood, young samurai, and pages serving the royal court. Fabrics were dyed according to status and purpose, and there were said to be around 20 different base colors.

Fabric Cotton, hemp, banana, silk, paulownia wood (tongbian) ■ Color Ground, yellow ground, light blue ground, flower colored ground, green ground, grape colored ground, indigo (deep) ground, blue indigo ground, stepped dyed ground (divided dyed ground) Yellow: Formal attire for royal women Light blue/shallow: Daily wear They were worn according to the season and age. The people who can wear them are determined by their social status and patterns, but they are generally characterized by bright colors that are typical of tropical countries.

Bingata techniques include stencil dyeing, tube painting, and indigo dyeing. A distinctive feature of stencil dyeing is that a dye-resistant paste is applied, and the color is not applied from above the stencil. Placing the stencil on both sides for dyeing is an advanced technique.

The artisans who made Bingata dyeing, who are thought to have been numerous in Shuri and Naha, were called Konya. In addition to Bingata, there were also Urasoe, Naha, and Tomari styles, and the patterns and colors were limited.

The Ryukyu Islands are home to a wide variety of textiles, and this is thought to be one of the reasons why Bingata has been passed down to the present day without losing its vibrant and timeless splendor.